Almost No-Sew Crochet Top Tutorial + Video

Have you ever had a sudden random idea that kept hovering around your brain like a pesky fly? After my recent scrap yarn crochet beanie, I kept thinking and wondering if it would be possible to use the back loop only method for other projects besides hats and sweater hems. I also wondered if there was a way to make a top with minimal sewing. A one piece (almost) no-sew top. Well, I’m delighted to tell you that yes, it’s absolutely possible and I’m happy to share my super easy crochet top with you!

Super Easy Crochet Top Pattern

Crochet Top Pattern: "Made-to-Fit" Design

Skill Level: Easy

Materials

  • For Cold Weather Version:

    • 6.00mm crochet hook

    • Worsted weight (4) yarn 

  • For Warm Weather Version:

    • 3.75mm crochet hook

    • Light weight (3) yarn

  • Yarn needle

  • Stitch marker

  • Measuring tape

  • Note app or notebook to write down your measurements

Gauge

Gauge is not critical for this project.

Abbreviations (US Terminology)

ch - chain

hdc - half double crochet

BLO - back loop only

Pattern Notes

This pattern is designed to be "made-to-fit" or “made-to-measure,” allowing for customization based on your own measurements and preferences. Detailed instructions are provided to guide you through the process of creating a versatile crochet top suitable for both warm and cold weather. The pattern is worked in rows in half double crochet in the back loops only.

Adjust the number of chains and stitches based on your measurements and preferences to achieve the desired fit.

Write down the following as you work so you can keep it for future reference:

Number of stitches needed to meet the desired underarm to waist length:

Number of underarm/side body rows:

Number of stitches added to create the first strap:

Measurements

  • Measure the underarm to waist length and width and you can decide how big you want the armhole to be. For me this was 10” long and 4” wide.

  • Measure from your waist (or desired starting point) up to your shoulder where a shoulder seam typically sits. For me I measured from below my natural waist to my shoulder seam and this was 20”.

  • Optionally, measure the front across the chest and height of the neckline. Or you can crochet until reaching the desired neckline point for a custom fit.

Crocheting the Top

  • Begin by crocheting rows until the fabric perfectly covers the underarm and side body area.

  • For the front and back of the top, crochet until the fabric reaches one strap edge to the next strap across.

  • Consider making the height of the back higher or lower than the front making the top reversible.

Maintaining Shape

  • If you find the weight of the fabric causes the top to become loose, use slip stitches around the armholes and neckline to maintain the shape of your work over time. 

  • For armholes, reinforce the shape by working single crochet stitches in each stitch around the armhole and work slip stitches into the row edges in the underarm.

  • For the neck and straps, work single crochet stitches around. You can reinforce the straps further by working a few slip stitches just before the strap shoulder seams.

As reference here are the number of rows and measurements for my specific tops.

Light Weight Yarn Version

  • Front and back: 26 short rows

  • Side underarm: 14 short rows

  • Shoulder straps (each): 6 long rows

Total: 104 rows

Worsted Weight Yarn Version

  • Front and back: 11 short rows

  • Side underarm: 10 short rows

  • Shoulder straps (each): 7 long rows

Total: 70 rows

My Top Measurements

  • Bottom hem: 34” across

  • Side underarm: 10” long, 4” wide

  • Front/back shoulder strap: 20” from bottom to top

  • Underarm width: 4” across

Crochet Instructions

Using the hook and yarn specified for your chosen version, create a foundation chain that matches the measurement of the underarm side body length (for example, my length was 10” so I chained until I had 10”). You can start a foundation chain or you can start with foundation half double crochet (fhdc).

Row 1: hdc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across, turn.

Row 2: Chain 1, working in both loops hdc in the first stitch, working BLO hdc in each stitch across, working in both loops hdc in the last stitch, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until you have the underarm width (for example, my underarm width was 4”).

Creating Straps

Foundation half double crochet (fhdc) the number of stitches needed for your strap (for example, my strap was 10”/26 stitches), turn.

Repeat Row 2 until you reach your desired strap width (for example, I worked 6 rows for my straps). I recommend you end your last strap row at the waist hem of your top.

Working the front/back neckline

Place a stitch marker where you want the neckline to start.

Chain 1, working in both loops hdc in the first stitch, working BLO hdc in each stitch across to the stitch marker, turn, leaving remaining stitches unworked.

Repeat Row 2.

Adjusting for Fit

Continue crocheting additional rows as needed to achieve the desired width of the front and back sections of the top, repeating the steps above to add the remaining straps and creating the second underarm section.

Experiment with the height of the back section to create a reversible design if desired.

Experiment with different yarn weights and hook sizes to create variations suitable for different seasons.

Once you finish crocheting the entire top, align the straps and the side seam and use a yarn needle to sew. Block if needed and your top is ready to wear!

If you make this easy crochet top I would love to see your creation, just tag me on Instagram @popsdemilk_crochet

Looking for more crochet tops? Check these out:

Granny Square Vest

Crochet Shroom Shrug

Fiesta Crochet Vest

Filet Crochet Mesh Top

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This pattern is for personal use only. The pattern and its photos may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated, published, altered, shared or posted in any way over the internet or offline.

You may sell finished items made from this pattern as long as it is handmade by you, not mass produced, giving the credit to Pops de Milk / Patricia Castillo as the designer. If you have any questions, you can email me at patricia@popsdemilk.com

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