At last, the instructions on how I made my beautiful Briar Rose crochet dress!

For those who might be new to the Briar Rose Dress journey, this project has been an extraordinary labor of love. It all began with a dress that I had crafted from a pattern featured in Vogue magazine. Unfortunately, that dress never quite lived up to my expectations. It remained tucked away in my closet, waiting for a second chance.

I embarked on a creative journey of my own design, unraveling the original dress, and breathing new life into the yarn. The result? The Briar Rose Dress, a knee-length crochet masterpiece inspired by the elegant silhouettes of the 60s.

To make the dress all over again I used Hobbii super fine cotton yarn, which I found to be fairly close to the crochet thread I originally used. I had a bunch of different colors and thought it would be fun to go for a rainbow theme and switch things up in the top and the skirt.

When I had finished the top and skirt I was faced with the dilemma of joining the pieces or leaving them as separates. I’m so thankful to the online community who helped me decide and I ended up going with leaving the pieces separate. This way I can mix and match with items in my closet!

The instructions I’m sharing here are based on my measurements and are intended to be a made-to-fit style pattern instruction. This is my first made-to-fit pattern style so please reach out if you have questions and feedback!

Materials

• Aunt Lydia’s Fashion 3 Crochet Thread in Warm Rose x 14 or similar (in the second attempt I used Hobbii Friends Cotton super fine yarn)

• 3.50mm hook

• Stitch markers

• Elastic band, mine was repurposed from the waistband of a pair of boxer briefs I never wore (for the second attempt I used a narrower elastic, like the kind you use for face masks, on both the top and skirt)

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch - chain

fdc - foundation double crochet

st(s) - stitch(es)

sc - single crochet

BLO - back loop only

sl st - slip stitch

dc - double crochet

sk - skip

rep - repeat

tch - turning chain

PM - place marker

Gauge Worked in Solid Shell Stitch 4" square = 4 Shells, 4 sc stitches x 8 rows

Special Stitches

Solid Shell Stitch - Multiples of 6 + 1 (add 1 for base chain)

Row 1: sc into 2nd from hook, *skip 2 ch, 5dc into next ch, skip 2 ch, sc into next ch, rep from * to end, turn

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as 1dc), 2 dc into first st, *skip 2 dc, sc into next dc, skip 2 dc, 5 dc into next sc, rep from * ending last rep with 3 dc in last sc, skip tch, turn

Row 3: ch 1, sc into first st, *skip 2 dc, 5 dc into next sc, skip 2 dc, sc in next dc, rep from * ending last rep with sc into top of tch, turn

Repeat rows 2-3

Make sure to check out my blog post and video on how to crochet the shell stitch.

Sizing Your Custom Top and Skirt

Start by measuring yourself to ensure a perfect fit. Below are my measurements as an example, but make sure to jot down your own.

Bust Circumference: Measure around the fullest part of your bust. In my case, it's 37.5 inches, so I will use this measurement as a reference. Divide that number by 2 to get the measurement for each of the front and back. In my case it’s 37.5” / 2 = 18.75”

Waist to Underarm: Measure the distance from your waist to just under your armpit. My measurement: 9”

Top of Bust to Shoulder: Measure from the top of your bust to your shoulder. My measurement: 7”

Underarm to Shoulder: Measure from under your arm and up toward your shoulder. My measurement: 10”

Before you start you will want to have an idea of how loose or close fitting you want the finished top and skirt to be as well as keep in mind that crocheted fabrics tend to stretch over time. Although my bust measurement for each piece is 18.75” I crocheted until I had approx. 18” so it would be a closer fit on the top piece and still have some stretch.

Dress Pattern

Bodice - Front

Note: Follow the shell stitch multiples of 6 + 1 formula. In my example, it was 85 stitches (84 + 1), but you'll need to adjust this based on your measurements.

Row 1 (WS): Chain 4 (this counts as 1 double crochet), foundation double crochet (fdc) 84 stitches. Turn your work.

Row 2 (RS): Work Solid Shell Stitch Row 2.

Row 3: Continue with Solid Shell Stitch Row 3.

Keep repeating Rows 2 and 3 until your piece measures 8 inches (in my case, it was 22 rows) end on Row 2 (RS).

Shaping Armholes

PM in the 3rd st of the 2nd 5-dc shell from the end of the row and repeat on the opposite end - this is where the armholes and front panel will start. In my case, the measurement between the edge of the row and the marked stitch is approx. 2.5”/6cm. If you need this to be bigger or smaller adjust accordingly just make sure you place the marker (start of the armhole) on the 3rd st of a 5-dc shell.

It helps to use a t-shirt or tank top as reference so you can measure from the side seam (just below the underarm area) towards the front or side of the bust area.

Row 1 (WS): Join the yarn in the marked stitch (this is where the armholes and front panel will begin). Work Row 3 of the Shell Stitch across to the next marked stitch, then turn.

Row 2: Work Solid Shell Stitch Row 2.

Row 3: Continue with Solid Shell Stitch Row 3.

Keep repeating Rows 2 and 3 until the armhole and front panel are about 2 inches. If you need it to be longer or shorter, feel free to adjust. However, make sure to end on a Right Side row. Do not cut the yarn. Turn your work.

Right Shoulder Strap

Note: Unless specified, the starting chain does not count as a stitch.

With the Wrong Side facing, skip 12 stitches and place a marker (PM) in the next stitch, which is the center double crochet (dc) of the second 5-dc shell.

Row 1: work Solid Shell Stitch Row 3 to marked stitch, turn (13 sts)

Row 2: work Solid Shell Stitch Row 2 (13 sts)

Row 3: work 3-dc Solid Shell Stitch Row 3 Decrease (9 sts)

Row 4: work 3-dc Solid Shell Stitch Row 2 (Decrease) (11 sts)

Row 5: work 3-dc Solid Shell Stitch Row 3 (Decrease) (9 sts)

Row 6: ch 3, (counts as a dc) 2 dc in first st, sk dc, sc in next st, sk dc, 1 dc in sc, sk dc, sc in next st, sk dc, 3 dc in last st (9 sts)

Row 7: ch 1, sc in first st, sk 2 sts, dc in next st, sc in next st, dc in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in top of tch, turn (5 sts)

Row 8: ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in first st, sc in next, dc in next, sc in next, 2dc in last st, turn (7 sts)

Row 9: ch 1, sc in first st, sk st, dc in next st, sc in next st, dc in next st, sk st, sc in top of tch, turn (5 sts)

Row 10: ch 1, sc in first st, sk st, sc in next st, sk st, sc in tch (3 sts)

Row 11: ch 3, sk 1st st, 3dc in next st, dc in last st (4 sts)

Row 12: Repeat Row 10 (3 sts)

Switch to 3.00mm hook

Row 13: ch 1, sc in each st across, turn (3 sts)

Repeat until strap measures approx 13” or desired length that reaches the back piece. It’s a good idea to not cut yarn until both front and back are joined at the side seams so you can try on the bodice and see if you need to add rows to the straps or take out rows to make it shorter.

In my case, I had 47 rows from the start of the strap.

Left Shoulder Strap

Pick up stitch in marked stitch on opposite end and repeat the same steps as right shoulder.

Bodice - Back

Row 1 (WS): Chain 4 (this counts as 1 double crochet), foundation double crochet (fdc) 84 stitches. Turn your work.

Row 2 (RS): Work Solid Shell Stitch Row 2.

Row 3: Continue with Solid Shell Stitch Row 3.

Keep repeating Rows 2 and 3 until your piece measures 8 inches (in my case, it was 22 rows) end on Row 2 (RS). Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Sew bodice side seams. Sew the straps into the back piece in the 3rd shell from the end of each row. Weave in ends.

Shell Sleeves

Row 1: With the back facing and working into the armhole edge, pick up a single crochet in the strap row that meets the main bodice. Single crochet evenly along the strap towards the front, ending just before the armhole edge in the front. In my case, I worked 60 single crochet stitches along the armhole strap but this number of stitches will depend on how long your strap is. Then, turn your work.

Row 2: Continue with Solid Shell Stitch Row 2.

Row 3: Continue with Solid Shell Stitch Row 3.

Row 4: Chain 4, skip 2 chains, single crochet in the next stitch. Chain 8, skip 5 stitches, single crochet in the next stitch. Repeat from * to the last shell, chain 4, skip 2 stitches, single crochet in the last stitch, then turn.

Row 5: Chain 1, single crochet in the first stitch. Chain 6, single crochet in the next single crochet, chain 6, single crochet in the chain-8 space. Repeat to the last chain-8 space, chain 6, single crochet in the next single crochet, chain 6, single crochet in the top of the chain from the previous row.

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Skirt

Each round adds approximately 3/4 inch to the length of the skirt.

Create a foundation double crochet (fdc) with 210 stitches. Place 7 stitch markers spaced out every 30 stitches to match and align with the bodice later. Join with a slip stitch to the first stitch, then turn.

Row 1: ch 3 (does not count as a stitch), dc in the first stitch and in each stitch around, sl st to join and turn.

Row 2: Continue with Solid Shell Stitch Row 2. I had 35 shells in total, including the shell created by the stitches at the beginning and end of the row.

Row 3: Continue with Solid Shell Stitch Row 3.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the skirt length is 20 inches or your desired length (in my case this was about 55 rows). End with Row 2. Do not cut the yarn. Turn your work.

Hem

Row 1: ch 1, sc in the same space, * ch 8, sc in the 3rd dc of the next shell, Rep from * ending with ch 8, sl st into the first stitch, then turn.

Row 2: ch 6, sc in the chain-8 space, ch 6, sc in the next sc, rep to end, ending with ch 6, sl st into the sc from the previous row.

Joining bodice to skirt:

Note: You can leave the top and skirt separate and instead sew an elastic to the skirt waistband.

1. Place 7 stitch markers spaced out every 24 stitches on the bodice foundation stitches to match the markers to the skirt.

2. Join the yarn in any marker on the skirt.

3. Chain 4 (counts as tr), sl st in the corresponding stitch on the bodice, tr in the next 2 sts on the skirt, making sure to sl st into the bodice after each stitch.

4. * tr dec, tr in the next 3 sts, rep from * around to the end, continuing to slip stitch into the corresponding stitch on the bodice as you work around.

Cut the yarn and weave in any ends.

Your dress is done and ready to wear!

I hope you enjoy this made-to-fit instruction and inspiration and if you make the dress or the top and skirt set I would absolutely love to see how they turned out! Just tag me on my socials @popsdemilk_crochet or just send me an email, I’d happy to see your beautiful and unique creations!

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This pattern is for personal use only. The pattern and its photos may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated, published, altered, shared or posted in any way over the internet or offline.

You may sell finished items made from this pattern as long as it is handmade by you, not mass produced, giving the credit to Pops de Milk / Patricia Castillo as the designer. If you have any questions, you can email me at patricia@popsdemilk.com